French Alsatian Wine
Have you ever tasted an Alsace Premier Cru wine? You have never heard of such a thing? There’s a sound reason for that… It doesn’t exist.
Alsace’s Grand Cru vineyard system has been widely criticised for many reasons, but there are two main reasons. The first main reason is that the Grand Cru rankings promote varietal wines made from four important Alsatian grape varieties (Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Muscat), and exclude other varieties and mixes, even when they are made utilizing the previously mentioned four varieties. The second main reason is that the system includes not simply the great vineyards of the region, but also several vineyards that are debatably not capable of making Grand Cru level wines.
Why doesn’t Alsace have a Premier Cru classification? The answer may lie in the recent history of the region. By recent, I mean the last 400 years or so.
At quick glance, you’ll come to grasp that the area is at the heart of Europe at the border of Germany and France. You will also quickly learn (if you had not learned already) that war has torn up the area. The last four hundred years of war in Alsace have turned the wine industry up, down, left, and right. It has been struggling to survive, held on for dear life, and is now on the up and up, apparently regaining its previous strength and vigour.
About 30 years or so after WWII, Alsatian producers agreed that, to try to raise the standard of production of Alsatian wine, an official classification system should be established and applied. It took some time to create it, and there was plenty of debating. With the 1983 vintage, the Grand Cru classification system was in force, but the debate has continued.
The key criticism concerning the classification system has to do with real-estate and thus levels of classification. Many Grand Cru vineyards deserve the classification, while others may deserve special classification, but not necessarily the “Grand Cru” moniker. Sadly, there’s no “Premier Cru” classification or “Village” classification, as in Burgundy.
That might be a great thing for the North American market, where simplicity is almost always a good thing. American’s want to know, “What’s the grape and what country does it come from?” Therefore, a further revision of the system and addition of a Premier Cru level may complicate things for the consumer.
Still, it may be a good thing for the consumer regarding quality… And it could be good for Alsace too.
Nic Haegeli still considers himself rather new to the wine business, but he now has several years of experience as a wine manager at Colonial Spirits. With a BA in History and a MA of Public Policy in International Relations, Nic never thought of himself working with wine. Nonetheless, he was raised in Alsace, France… So it makes sense when you know where he comes from.
Nic would like to invite you to come by our liquor store in Acton, MA for one of our many wine tastings . If you can’t stop by the physical store, then please check out our web store offering liquor store delivery. Place an order with Colonial Spirits Delivers and have your wine delivered anywhere in Eastern Massachusetts!
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