Wine And Terroir
Winemaking and appreciation have one of the most advanced specialist vocabularies in the world, and whilst comprehensive and useful, it can make an already confusing field even more impenetrable. It’s alright for the connoisseur looking to buy wine online, the array of search options allow for the finest appreciation of a new wine. But some of us just need to know what colour a wine will be, a little else. Amusingly, the situation is even more complex than these websites reveal. What is behind one of the greatest shifts in wine classification? The move towards so called ‘New World’ wines.
Both growers and buyers used to put more emphasis on the region in which a wine was grown, but now the emphasis seems to increasingly be on the type of grape used. Chablis and Champagne are still recognisable regions emblazoned on wine labels the world over, but the international recognition for Chardonnay wine seems set to rapidly replace them. California may be rightfully taking its place as a world power in wine production, but we do not yet associate ‘Californian wine’ with any specific type.
As the world’s horizons have expanded, the extent of the wine growing regions have expanded with them. ‘Terroir’ is the term we usually used to describe the geography, geology and climate in which a grape grows best. Whilst certain grape types have seemed to thrive almost regardless of these factors, ‘terroir’ is a term that still has worthwhile currency. Even with the broadest strokes of these resilient grapes, there is a subtle hint of soil, weather and treatment carried into the wine. A Chablis Chardonnay undoubtedly has a different taste to a New Zealand Chardonnay.
The narrow growth potential of certain grape varieties adds to their appeal enormously. Nebbiolo wine comes primarily from North East Italy, and is in fact a grape type that is almost exclusive to the Piedmont Region. And even there, only 3% of the crops are grown with this grape type. Whilst the difficulty of Nebbiolo fermentation is certainly behind its minority status, the specific terroir it requires has few matches globally. This pushes prices higher, and keeps derivatives like the delicious Barolo highly sought after.
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