The Future Of Malbec
I’ve spotted something interesting about Malbec lately… it’s everywhere. Even the 99, not exactly famous for its wine list, has a Malbec. The most recent big red wine craze has gone outside the initial stage of folks simply purchasing it, to magazine coverage, to the tier of restaurants who always seem to be the last to react to wine trends.
In addition to writing blog posts and doing plenty of speaking with people at the shop, my primary responsibility continues to be making absolutely certain that the fine wines are stocked. While not particularly glamorous, this does give me a ground zero view of trends among our shoppers, and what I have spotted in the past couple of months is this: Malbec has decelerated to a crawl. Where once I had to make two passes a week through Argentina, now if it is necessary I’ll skip a week safely. It looks as though, again, the trends are shifting.
This is a repeating theme for American wine consumers… remember Australian Shiraz? California Merlot? It is an recognized fact that, in opposition to the majority of the wine drinking world, Americans like to choose a type of wine, declare it to be “the best ever,” and so a hot trend is born. As more folks become obsessed with this newcomer, producers begin to change the wine… making it riper, fruitier, softer, and more oaky. Whatever little exotic personality the wines that started the trend may have had, by the point our Shiraz or Malbec shows up on the 99′s wine list, that magic has lost its luster.
This can all have sounded rather gloomy, but in fact when wines go out of favour engaging things start to happen. When Shiraz dropped out of favor, suddenly “boutique” wineries charging absurd amounts of money for so-so wine couldn’t sustain themselves. Prices came down, and the over-extracted, unidentifiable wines gave way to expressions that were balanced, interesting, even chic. We’ve seen Barossa Shiraz tone down the sugar content, Coonawarra embrace its more spicy character, and seen the emergence of Mornington as a area producing medium-bodied wines that take as many cues from the North Rhone as they do from Penfolds. Australia has received a second lease on life, and has made a decision to build for the longer term rather than embrace its hedonistic past.
Of course, this returns us back to Malbec. As the wines that more sales representatives bring in taste more alike, and the category slows, I see bright spots set to appear. There are oakless Malbecs now, priced around $10, that truly show off fruit because they have nothing to hide behind. I see single vineyard wines for under $20, that deliver both the classic Malbec violet note and show individual terroir. I even see Cahors, the French area known for Malbec production, growing as our customers get involved in touching their new discovery’s roots.
Do not be surprised if soon the newest “best wine ever” appears. Look for your hostess gifts to change from Malbec to Rioja, or Old Vine Zinfandel, or Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and look for in-store tastings to modify their focus. Then head into Argentina and take a look at the regions, the styles, the claims of “balance” and “expressiveness.” Ask us questions, we love to talk about this stuff. Just as Shiraz has become today, so soon you will find that Malbec has become an unheralded but brilliant role player in the larger arena of wine.
Patrick Suleski has been with Colonial Spirits, a Concord liquor store, since early 2008. Patrick studied to become a Sommelier in Florence, Italy, before returning to the U.S. to follow wine as a career. Very able with his wine selections, Patrick can also explain what food to pair with your favourite white wine and can potentially tell you which blues artist is playing over the shop’s PA.
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